When it comes to the most colorful province in China, Yunnan is definitely in the mix. Mentioning Yunnan, or “South of the Colorful Clouds,” many would think of Kunming, Dali, Lijiang, Shangri-La, and Lugu Lake… these beautiful places. However, many might not know that just an hour away from Kunming lies a divine little city, more serene than Lijiang and better for daydreaming than Dali, yet almost devoid of tourists.
You might not know it, or even find its name unfamiliar, but you’ve definitely heard of Fuxian Lake, known the musician Nie Er, heard of Chu Shijian, Red Pagoda cigarettes, and Chu Orange. This unassuming small city is actually a treasure trove: the ancient traveler Xu Xiake praised it highly, the musical poet Li Jian wrote a song about it, it boasts three out of the nine highland lakes of Yunnan, and it captures the hearts of foodies with a bowl of eel rice noodles!
It’s called Yuxi! The place in Yunnan closest to fairyland! 
Yuxi
“Yuxi” means “Jade Stream” – though not by the sea, it has five “seas”: the sunrise cloud sea akin to Niubei Mountain, the vast expanse of Fuxian Lake, the blue jacaranda flower sea not inferior to Kunming, and the golden sea of canola fields rivaling Luoping.
Yuxi isn’t a stream; it’s a city of colors, with reds, oranges, yellows, greens, blues, purples, and more. Here, you’ll understand why Yunnan is called “South of the Colorful Clouds.”
Though not large, Yuxi hides countless beauties: a “sky mirror” more dreamlike than Erhai Lake or Lugu Lake; a lakeside resort that feels like Sanya, despite not being by the sea; and terraces more ethereal than those of Yuanyang…
It should no longer be overlooked. Today, let’s delve into Yuxi to experience its vibrant beauty.
Blue
In Yuxi, there’s a clarity of blue more beautiful than Lugu Lake, known as Fuxian Lake. There’s a saying: “Dali for one, Lijiang for two, Fuxian Lake for a family.” Compared to Erhai Lake, Lugu Lake, and Dian Lake, Fuxian Lake might not be as famous, but its beauty is no less impressive.
It’s the largest deep-water freshwater lake in China, with a volume four times that of Dian Lake and Erhai Lake combined. Standing by the lake, you’ll see its vastness, truly like an inland sea.
Ancient people called it “a sea of glass,” not inferior to the most beautiful “sky mirror” of Chaka, with its clear, transparent waters reflecting the blue sky and white clouds.
Xu Xiake wrote: “The mountains of Yunnan are mostly soil, hence many streams form seas, but the water is often murky, except for Fuxian Lake, which is the clearest.”
The musical poet Li Jian also wrote a song about it, titled “Fuxian Lake.”
On a good day, cycling along the lake road is delightful, as comfortable and serene as Erhai Lake, but with fewer people and more leisure.
During spring and summer, the lakeside is adorned with blooming flowers, filling the air with fragrance.
In misty weather, the lake is enveloped in clouds and fog, like entering the mythical Penglai Island. Boating on the lake in this hazy atmosphere gives a touch of otherworldly charm.
At night, you can watch the stars reflected on the water, like an endless universe.
Orange
In Yuxi, there’s a stunning half-blue, half-orange at sunset known as Xingyun Lake, a place that sounds beautiful even in name. It’s just one mountain away from Fuxian Lake, yet it’s a lesser-known secret.
At sunset, Xingyun Lake’s water turns from deep blue to a fiery orange, creating a breathtaking half-blue, half-orange scene.
The lake is also famous for its Jiangchuan Bighead Carp and silver fish, with a lively fishing festival on December 25th every year when thousands of boats compete.
White
In Yuxi, there’s a sea of clouds akin to Niubei Mountain, found at Ailao Mountain. This area boasts the richest plant species at the same latitude, with a forest coverage of 85%, earning it the titles “Gene Bank” and “Kingdom of Animals.”
But the most stunning feature of Ailao Mountain is its sunrise cloud sea. With frequent fog and clouds, the sunrise here is like stepping into a fairyland.
Walking through the mountains, you’ll encounter waterfalls around corners, ancient trees overhead, and it feels like entering the world of martial arts novels.
Red
In Yuxi, there’s a legendary red landmark known as Hongta Mountain. This ancient pagoda, originally built in the Yuan Dynasty and rebuilt in the Qing Dynasty, is a symbol of Yuxi. The “Red Pagoda Morning Glow” at dawn is breathtaking, and from the mountaintop, you can overlook the entire city.
Many visit Hongta Mountain out of curiosity about the Red Pagoda cigarettes and Chu Shijian.
In Yuxi, there’s a passionate red known as Lvzhi Town, named after the Lvzhi River. With a long history of copper mining, it’s one of China’s eight major copper mines, earning it the nickname “Copper Capital of Central Yunnan” and “Little Hong Kong.”
Now a quiet town, in May, it’s covered in blooming phoenix flowers, creating a stunning red landscape.
Purple
In Yuxi, there’s a romantic purple that rivals Kunming and Xichang, known as the full city of blue jacaranda. Every early summer, when the jacaranda blooms, Yuxi’s streets and alleys transform into avenues of purple flowers, enchanting and romantic.
Especially along the banks of the Zhou River, Dongfeng Road, and Longma Road… the sight of purple is overwhelming. In schools, parks, and even under residential buildings, you’ll be surprised by sudden splashes of purple.
At this time in Yuxi, commuting feels like walking through a flower path, with the gentle breeze, truly delightful.
And the sky in Yuxi is genuinely beautiful, offering a unique Yunnan blue every day. The blue sky paired with the purple flower sea looks like a scene from a fairy tale.
Green
In Yuxi, there’s a soothing green called Jiulong Pond. “Nine dragons spring forth, high mountains flow with the sound of zithers; green terraces overlap, the moonlit breeze carries the melody of flutes.” This is a couplet praising Jiulong Pond.
It’s a favorite summer retreat for locals, where fish play in the clear green water year-round, surrounded by ancient trees and temples, creating a serene, picturesque scene.
Pink
In Yuxi, there’s a pink that strikes at first sight, known as winter cherry blossoms. In winter, you don’t need to travel to Wuliang Mountain to witness the ephemeral beauty of winter cherry blossoms.
Walking the streets, a turn might lead you into a burst of pink; you can also visit the “Sakura Street” in Yushan City to see the cherry blossoms, where white houses and blue skies are perfectly complemented.
Golden
In Yuxi, there’s an endless golden known as the fields of Chengjiang. On the way to Ma Fang Village in Chengjiang County, one side is the vast expanse of Fuxian Lake, and the other is endless fields. Here, you can encounter two “golden seas” throughout the year: one in spring with fields of canola flowers, and one in autumn with golden fields.
Colorful
In Yuxi, there’s a tranquil beauty more stunning than the terraced fields of Yuanyang, known as the Nannuo Terraces. While many know of the breathtaking terraces of the Hani people in Honghe’s Yuanyang, few know of the equally beautiful, secluded terraces in Yuxi’s Yuanjiang – the Nannuo Terraces.
The Hani people’s long-standing agricultural culture has carved out astonishing “sky ladders” on Ailao Mountain. These layered terraces are a photographer’s dream, offering irresistible shots.
Especially from November to March the next year, during the water-filling period, it’s not only a great time for photography but also when the rare cloud sea terrace phenomenon occurs.
Colorful Life
In Yuxi, there’s a vibrant way of life called “enjoy the present, eat and stroll.” The pace of life in Yuxi isn’t fast; if you want to experience life here closely, wander through the old streets, eat and stroll. Then you’ll discover that Yuxi is also a hidden food paradise.
If you come to Yuxi, you must try the “one cold, one hot” rice noodles.
Cold Rice Noodles
The cold, chewy rice noodles, paired with soft, sticky cold jelly, and topped with a tangy-sweet vinegar sauce, offer a solid hit of flavor and refreshment with every bite.
Eel Rice Noodles
The tender, chewy wild eel meat, combined with the rich, aromatic bone broth, and the first bite of rice noodles with its intense, slightly spicy flavor, is unforgettable.
Cold Wrapped Rice Noodles
Yuxi’s cold wrapped rice noodles are not rolled like some other types, nor are they like pig intestine noodles; instead, steamed rice sheets are folded and cut into strips, providing a smooth and substantial texture.
Jellied Tofu
A common sight in Yuxi’s streets and alleys, this dish features tofu fried to a crispy exterior with a soft, juicy interior, delicious whether with dry chili or dipping sauce.
Soy Sauce Chicken
Ask a local for a Yuxi specialty, and nine times out of ten, they’ll mention this first.
The chicken is marinated in a secret brine, then cut into pieces and served with a sauce made from soy sauce and sugar, topped with Sichuan peppercorn, dried chili, and hot oil.
Eshan Roasted Goose
Eshan’s roasted goose is a must-try, with its crispy skin, tender meat, fragrant bones, and non-greasy flavor.
Yimen Mushroom Hot Pot
Yimen County in Yuxi offers countless ways to cook mushrooms, with the “mixed mushroom hot pot” being the most exquisite, featuring tender mushrooms in a rich, fragrant chicken broth.
Copper Pot Fish
The fresh, sweet, fragrant, and spicy copper pot fish, paired with a bowl of braised rice, is truly aromatic.
Go cycling by Fuxian Lake, watch the sunrise cloud sea at Ailao Mountain, or seek out the mouthwatering flavors in the city’s streets and alleys… steal a few days of leisure in life, and give your mind and body a break.
