As my food exploration in Egypt came to a close, I thought about my favorite dish. If I had to choose just one, it would be the seafood soup.
When I first arrived in Cairo, someone recommended the seafood soup. They told me that it’s not just a soup. It’s a bowl filled with fish, shrimp, crabs, shellfish, and more. The soup itself is almost a rare luxury. I made a note to try it at a seafood restaurant when I had the chance.
We walked from Tahrir Square to Ibn Hamido Seafood Restaurant. It was a little off the beaten path, away from the crowded tourist areas. The marketplace was lively. I saw oranges stacked in pyramid shapes, brightly colored and beautiful. On the first floor, fresh seafood was on display. We went upstairs and ordered two bowls of seafood soup—one white, one red. 
Authentic Seafood Soup: The White Base
The authentic seafood soup is white. They cook it with butter and garlic, then add different types of seafood. The magic comes from the cream and milk, which are added together to create a rich, smooth broth. This is the standard seafood soup in Egypt. The white soup cost 160 Egyptian pounds (about 20 RMB). It was creamy and soothing. The shrimp and fish had a lovely milky flavor.
The Red Seafood Soup: A Feast in Itself
The red seafood soup is rare. Only a few restaurants offer it. It’s made with spices and homemade tomato sauce, and sprinkled with parsley when served. The red soup cost 330 Egyptian pounds. It came in a bowl twice the size of the white soup, wrapped in aluminum foil. When we opened it, we saw shrimp, crab, shellfish, fish roe, and various types of fish packed tightly together. The crabs were spread across the bowl, almost spilling out.
The red soup was rich and full-bodied. The fish roe added a delicate texture to each bite. It was unlike anything I had ever tasted. I fell in love with it immediately.
Seafood in Alexandria, Suez, and Port Said: The Best of Egypt’s Coastal Cuisine
Locals say the best seafood comes from three cities in Egypt: Alexandria, Port Said, and Suez. These port cities stretch along the northern coastline. Port Said and Suez are gateways to the Suez Canal, which connects the Mediterranean to the Red Sea. Looking for the freshest seafood, we decided to visit Alexandria first.
We arrived at Zephere, Alexandria’s most famous seafood restaurant, at noon. For Egyptians, breakfast is usually done by late morning, and lunch isn’t until after 3 PM. This late schedule is due to the hot weather and religious practices, including early morning prayers. After praying, many people sleep for a few hours before having lunch.
Zephere, established in 1918, is the oldest seafood restaurant in Alexandria. As we entered, old photos lined the walls. The manager, a tall man with sharp features, looked like an ancient Egyptian pharaoh. He was busy organizing the fresh seafood of the day.
On his recommendation, we ordered grilled shrimp with cheese, grilled red snapper, fried squid, and grilled crabs. In Egypt, seafood is typically grilled or fried. The fish are grilled whole, and shrimp and crabs are either grilled or stir-fried with onions. While the preparation isn’t complex, the quality of the seafood makes all the difference. When the dish arrived, the seafood was hot and steaming. What made it distinctly Egyptian was the sesame paste, pickled lemons, and the famous baladi bread.
Sayadiya: Egypt’s Fishermen’s Favorite
Egyptians love fish. Whether it’s from the Mediterranean or the Nile River, fish is a staple. One popular dish is sayadiya, a fish and rice dish. Fish is simmered with spices, and the rice is cooked in the fish broth to absorb all the flavors. Along the coast, mullet, grouper, and red snapper are used. Inland, people often use Nile perch or tilapia. The dish is served with sesame sauce, salad, and pickles. It’s a classic Egyptian meal.
The Unique Tradition of Feseekh: Fermented Fish for Spring
In Luxor, I saw a vendor selling small salted fish. These are eaten only during Egypt’s “Wind Festival” in the spring, a celebration similar to the Chinese New Year. This tradition dates back to Egypt’s Old Kingdom. The salted fish is fermented and stored in glass jars along with pickled lemons and carrots. It’s eaten as a snack before meals.
Feseekh is another traditional dish for the festival. It’s made by fermenting larger fish, like grey mullet, for months. The fish develop a strong smell, and after fermentation, it’s cleaned and served in small pieces. Although it’s an ancient dish, it’s known to cause food poisoning for some people due to the fermentation process.
Exploring Suez: Egypt’s Freshest Seafood Market
After our meals in Alexandria, we weren’t completely impressed. We decided to visit Suez, where the seafood is said to be fresher. Suez is a small city, just two hours from Cairo. It’s known for being clean and organized. The city depends on the famous Suez Canal for its economy.
We visited the largest seafood market in Suez. It’s been operating for 35 years. We arrived at 9 AM, but the market was still quiet. Most activity begins around 3 PM. We wandered through the market, finding many unfamiliar types of fish and shellfish. The vendors eagerly showed us their goods by lifting fish and even demonstrating the freshness of live crabs.
At one stall, I saw small sharks, around 30-40 cm long. They were cut into pieces for cooking. I also saw big red snapper, salmon, and various shrimp and crabs. The market had clear boundaries—fish vendors sold fish, while others specialized in shellfish.
I bought shrimp, crabs, and a type of mullet known for its roe. The vendors showed us the fresh roe, explaining that it’s used in seafood soup.
The Seafood Bomb: A Unique Dish in Cairo
After our trip to Suez, we returned to Cairo and ordered the red seafood soup again. The staff was surprised to see us each order our own bowl. It’s unusual for someone to do that. I commented on how delicious it was. The waiter excitedly corrected me, saying, “This isn’t just seafood soup, this is seafood bomb!” The name made sense when we saw the bowl overflowing with seafood.
It became clear that the “seafood bomb” is a special treat, one that I would never forget.
