I’ve simply found a secret oasis within the glowing water aisle at a neighborhood grocery retailer in Little Armenia. I’ve pushed previous this location many instances however by no means paid it any discover. By my facet is Martin Riese, a licensed water sommelier. He’s pointing to bottles from worldwide manufacturers I’ve by no means heard of. Riese highlights some noteworthy choices: Ararat (from Armenia), Gerolsteiner (from Germany), Jermuk Borjomi (from Georgia) and Tehuacan (from Mexico), which he’s by no means seen earlier than — a rarity for the H20 obsessive.
In L.A., water guidelines every part round us. Drink up, cool off and dive into our tales about hydrating and recreating within the metropolis.
No, we’re not at Erewhon, Lassen’s or some other upscale, fashionable market. Fairly, we’re standing inside a Jons Contemporary Market, a family-owned L.A. grocery chain. In keeping with Riese, it’s the very best place to purchase uncommon, inexpensive consuming water in L.A. Along with basic market waters like Crystal Geyser and Arrowhead, the shop gives greater than a dozen water manufacturers from no less than eight nations.
Riese ought to know the place to purchase the very best water. He created his first “water menu” in Berlin in 2005 and has been licensed as a water sommelier by the German Water Commerce Assn. since 2011. His days are spent consulting for beverage manufacturers, educating folks about water by way of his fashionable TikTok and holding month-to-month Zoom water tastings that value $105, which incorporates the price of water and participation for as much as 4 folks. German-born, he got here to the US in 2011 however didn’t uncover Jons till he moved to Van Nuys in 2022 and located one proper subsequent to his home.
Water sommelier Martin Riese factors out the absurdity of “Naturally Calorie-Free” labeling on a bottle of water.
Riese tastes a pattern of mineral water bought from Jons.
“I wish to carry consciousness to those that there’s different choices than the common stuff you will discover actually in Pavilions or Ralphs,” Riese says. “They all the time have the identical manufacturers. I walked in [to Jons] and I couldn’t consider you’ll be able to really purchase this nice portfolio in a retailer.”
Jons was based in 1977 by John and Jack Berberian, Armenian immigrants, with Los Angeles’ huge overseas inhabitants in thoughts.
“They have been dedicated to serving to different current immigrants regulate to their new lives by making a few of the meals and elements that have been acquainted to them [available],” says Dave Harriman, the director of retail nonperishable departments. The corporate has lengthy claimed that Jons was the primary L.A. grocery retailer to supply worldwide meals.
Armenian glowing water model Ararat at Jons..
This merchandising method extends to the water choice, particularly the glowing aisle. Most “bottled waters” obtainable in American grocery shops are merely filtered faucet water, primarily what you possibly can make at residence along with your Brita, in response to Riese. To sommeliers like him, spring or mineral waters are preferable as a result of they arrive from a pure supply; they’re wealthy in calcium, magnesium and sodium. Relying on the water, there are totally different ranges of every, altering not simply its style however its well being advantages. Not like most American waters, European water labels that Jons carries element every of their product’s precise mineral composition on the bottle.
Riese explains that in Germany, there are greater than 60 water manufacturers so full of minerals that they transcend easy hydration and are thought of a type of treatment by the German Federal Workplace of Shopper Safety and Meals Security.
“This can be a state-approved treatment, nevertheless it’s nothing else than bottled water,” he stated. “So for instance, a Gerolsteiner — which you will discover at Jons — has the identical quantity of calcium as a glass of milk.”
Different highlights amongst Jons aisles are Borjomi, a Georgian seltzer that’s obtainable in L.A. solely at worldwide grocery shops like Jons and Tremendous King. Romano Chobanu, a gross sales supervisor for the water model, calls it a “distinctive water,” with a “particular style, which is totally different than different mineral waters like Italian.” It’s excessive in sodium and is used as a hangover treatment in Japanese Europe: “After you’re having your get together or one thing, you drink Borjomi,” he stated. (A technique Riese endorses.)
A Jons buyer stated he drank Jermuk mineral water in Armenia.
Water sommelier Martin Riese units up a water style comparability of a number of manufacturers of mineral water obtainable at Jons.
For somewhat over $10, Martin and I buy 5 waters for an impromptu style tasting on {an electrical} field out entrance, utilizing tiny purple Solo cups usually used for pictures of alcohol. Riese arranges them from lowest mineral content material to highest, beginning with Poland Springs, then Ararat, adopted by Gerolsteiner, Borjomi and Jermuk (additionally from Armenia). As we transfer from proper to left, the tasting notes develop extra advanced, and the saltiness intensifies. As I join with my very own internal water sommelier, I determine Borjomi, the aforementioned hangover aide, as my favourite, and discover Poland Springs to style revolting compared to the others.
Riese feedback colorfully, as a wine sommelier would element the notes of a Pinot Grigio, suggesting sure waters pair finest with sure meals. “Your meals will style otherwise simply based mostly on the water,” he says, providing that Saratoga (from New York), additionally obtainable at Jons, pairs nice with sushi due to its low mineral content material.
The perfect half is, all of this was much more inexpensive than a wine tasting — and even what you’d discover at different high-end grocery shops.
“I really feel generally that Individuals like to get fooled,” Riese says, with the caveat that he loves America. “I don’t know what it’s. However they love considering all the time when one thing is dearer, it’s instantly a greater product. And that’s completely not true. Particularly in the case of water.”
