By Joseph L. Garcia, Senior Reporter
DURING a visit BusinessWorld took to Vienna in October, the Austrian capital felt just like the setting of a fairy story. Throughout our resort on the Neuer Markt sq. (the brand new market, however it had been so for the reason that Center Ages) stood the store of A.E. Köchert, jewelers to the Habsburgs, the previous Imperial dynasty of Austria (and as soon as, the Holy Roman Empire). Their home windows displayed diamond tiaras, whereas road performers close by sang arias, and waltzed with their viewers. Bells from St. Stephen’s Cathedral woke the sq., populated by old-world retailers filled with just one specialty: fur, or silver, or stationery.
Each fairy story has an finish, nevertheless, and for the rulers of the Home of Habsburg, they had been reminded of this by the Kapuzinergruft, the Imperial crypt. Positioned in the identical Neuer Markt sq. (it was a two-minute stroll from our resort), that is the place members of the Habsburg household had been laid to relaxation. Oddly sufficient, it’s a mere seven-minute stroll from their once-seat of energy, the Hofburg Palace (except for being a museum, it additionally homes the offices of the Austrian president, now Alexander Van der Bellen). The Hofburg Palace complicated additionally holds their treasures on the Schatzkammer (the Imperial Treasury), for all to gawk at and see — at the least one factor is true: you actually can’t take it to your grave.
The Habsburg dynasty as soon as dominated over a number of territories past their capital in Vienna, which now represent a big chunk of continental Europe: most of Germany, the fashionable Czech Republic, Spain, Italy, Belgium, Luxembourg, Switzerland, and a lot extra — all united below the Habsburg crown. A succession of wars broke up the empire through the years, concluding within the Napoleonic Wars, which ended the Holy Roman Empire and gave delivery to the Austro-Hungarian Empire — later to be dissolved, together with Habsburg rule, within the ashes of World Warfare I. Irrespective of — whereas items of the empire had been misplaced in conflict, the Habsburgs maintained their affect over most of Europe by strategic marriages, therefore the household motto: Bella gerant alii, tu felix Austria nube (“Could others go to conflict, you content Austria, marry”).
The Kapuzinergruft, maintained in perpetuity by the Capuchin friars, was based in 1618 by Anna of Tyrol, spouse of the Habsburg emperor Matthias. Their coffins, manufactured from lead, are among the many first you see when you enter the crypt — however then there are such a lot of tombs (about 150), it actually is dependent upon the place your eyes relaxation first. To see the tombs of the Habsburgs, one pays about €8.50. For the reason that crypt continues to be a working church and monastery, company are instructed by an indication to maintain their voices down, to not take movies or pictures with flash, and to not contact something. Throughout our go to on Oct. 12, there was only one different hushed tour group, carrying headsets, whereas a priest guided them by the tour, talking in low tones into his personal headset.
We left out some Habsburgs (sorry), and went to the tomb holding Empress Maria Theresa and her husband, Franz Stefan I, Holy Roman Emperor. Empress Maria Theresa (who died in 1780) and her offspring modified a lot of the world: she launched schooling reform throughout her dominions, and united all of them below one code of legal guidelines in her title. Her son, Joseph II, expanded upon these reforms and launched authorized freedom to the serfs in 1782, ending serfdom in most of Europe (and in a means, nudging within the Industrial Revolution). His successor, youthful brother Leopold II, fought towards the French for his sister, Marie Antoinette, trapped within the French Revolution. His son, Francis, continued this battle into the French Revolutionary Wars (he failed to avoid wasting his aunt from the guillotine, and wasn’t very a lot interested by doing so, based on accounts), later evolving into the Napoleonic Wars. The ensuing Congress of Vienna helped form Europe as we all know it at present.
Maria Theresa and her husband’s tomb stands within the middle of a vault: spectacular, massive as a small ship, beneath a dome the place daylight streams in. Veiled spirits guard her baroque tomb, and amidst all this splendor, a cranium: a reminder of what all of us flip into after loss of life, regardless of how nice the life led (it’s, nevertheless, nonetheless a cranium carrying an imperial crown). Her successor, Joseph, lies in entrance of his mother and father, in humbler fashion, as per his personal needs: the inscription on his plain tomb is nearly pale, studying: Hier liegt ein Fürst, der trotz der besten Meinung keiner seiner Pläne durchsetzen konnte (“Right here lies a ruler who, regardless of his finest intentions, was unsuccessful in all of his endeavors”).
His spouse Isabella’s tomb, by a nook, modified the world in its personal means, affecting the Habsburg matchmaking recreation. Archduchess Josepha was compelled by her mom Maria Theresa to wish for her sister-in-law within the crypt. Based on accounts, Isabella’s tomb was improperly sealed, and her physique contaminated her sister-in-law with smallpox, which later killed her. With the loss of life of Archduchess Josepha, earmarked as a bride for Naples, her sister Maria Carolina, supposed as a bride for France, took her place, and in flip, youthful sister Marie Antoinette was despatched to France. No smallpox, no Marie Antoinette, no Napoleon, no Congress of Vienna, no Austro-Hungarian Empire, no World Warfare I — and maybe, little of the conflicts we see at present.
We noticed different Habsburg tombs: there’s Marie Christine, Maria Theresa’s favourite daughter, and everybody’s least favourite sibling (Marie Antoinette didn’t invite her to the Petit Trianon throughout a state go to), whose artwork assortment varieties the spine of the Albertina Museum, additionally shut by; Maria Carolina, Marie Antoinette’s favourite sister, additionally ousted from her throne in Italy. After looking for acquainted names from that chapter of historical past, we went to the tomb of Empress Elisabeth, one other Habsburg superstar.
Her tomb shares raised area along with her husband, Franz Joseph, and her son, Crown Prince Rudolf, although her husband the Emperor’s tomb is raised within the middle just a few toes above his spouse and little one. Elisabeth, affectionately recognized all through the world as Sisi, captivated the Belle Epoque world then along with her magnificence, her fashion, and her melancholic life. Stylishly skinny due to an consuming dysfunction attributable to the affect of imperial and household life on her psychological well being, she moved throughout Europe to keep away from staying within the imperial capital of Vienna. Assassinated in 1898, her life and loss of life are the topic of quite a few films, musicals, even a cartoon. The latest showcase of her tragic life and its affect in popular culture was most not too long ago seen in 2022, with The Empress streaming on Netflix.
Her tomb will not be lonely. Once more, she spares area along with her husband and son (who died in a mysterious suicide in Mayerling) — however to at the present time, offerings are laid at her tomb. We noticed flowers, a framed {photograph} of her, and drawings by youngsters telling her they liked her.
Different Habsburgs of her personal age are additionally unusually honored: her brother-in-law, Maximillian, is buried within the Kapuzinergruft as nicely. Mexican flags and different souvenirs from the nation are laid at his tomb, regardless of failing to efficiently rule the weak, newly established Mexican Empire. For this, he was executed in 1867 by forces led by Benito Juarez (which led to the fashionable state of Mexico). His spouse, Charlotte of Belgium, mourned him to the purpose of madness — she died a recluse in 1927, outliving the empires that formed her world.
There are tombs of a comparatively new make, nonetheless retaining their bronzed sheen. They’re conspicuous of their newness: the tombs of the household of Karl, the final Emperor of Austria, who died in 1922. His spouse, Zita of Bourbon-Parma, died in 1989, and was laid there to relaxation. After the dissolution of the Empire, the Habsburgs had been exiled from Austria and banned from returning till pretty not too long ago. The ex-Empress was allowed entry solely in 1982. After her loss of life, she was declared a Servant of God by Pope Benedict XVI, placing her on the trail to sainthood (which in all probability explains the floral choices at her tomb). The latest entombment was simply final 12 months, in 2023, for Princess Yolande de Ligne, the widow of Archduke Carl Ludwig of Austria, a son of the final emperor.
We take some consolation once we are instructed that in loss of life, we’re all the identical. Judging by the resting place of the Habsburgs, are we certain that’s true? Some graves lie forgotten, whereas some are cared for by clergymen, centuries on; flowers laid at their tombs, their names nonetheless whispered with reverence. There will likely be no memento retailers with cranium keychains and books about me after I die, that’s for certain. However the map to the Kapuzinergruft argues: “Those that imagine that the rich and highly effective have erected a remaining monument of their self-importance stand corrected: magnificence and splendor are strongly contrasted by naked bones and toothless skulls. Above all there’s a reminder that loss of life can strike everybody — no matter age or rank — at any time.”
