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Hong Kong’s Fish Ball Frenzy: A Street Food Legend

Hong Kongers, like their Cantonese cousins, are passionate about food. The city’s blend of Eastern and Western influences has created a vibrant food scene. From bustling restaurants and tea houses to hidden gems in alleyways, there’s always something delicious cooking. Fish balls, dim sum, and dai pai dongs offer a feast for every taste and budget.

A City on the Go, Fueled by Flavor

Life in Hong Kong moves at a breakneck pace. But in the evening, even the most polished professionals unwind at humble food stalls. They treat themselves to a tasty meal, proving that even amidst chaos, a good meal is essential. For food lovers, a Hong Kong trip focused solely on eating is a dream come true. We’ve touched on Hong Kong souvenirs, classic brands, and roast meats. Now, let’s explore another food icon: the fish ball.

Fish Balls: A Hong Kong Staple

Fish balls are everywhere in Hong Kong life, and you often see them in classic Hong Kong movies. In “As Tears Go By,” Andy Lau directs Jacky Cheung to sell fish balls – a small business, but an honest way to live. But for the restless character played by Jacky, this feels like slow torture. He’d rather die in the streets. In “Future Cops”, Dicky Cheung makes his grand entrance by grabbing a giant fish ball and gazing dreamily at his crush. Even TVB star Myolie Wu shared that eating fish balls as a staple helped her lose 30 pounds in two months! They’re tasty, satisfying and relatively low in fat – it’s a win-win!

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Just how much do Hongkongers love fish balls? In 2002, a rumor spread online: Hong Kongers eat 3.75 million fish balls daily, or 185 per person annually. It’s safe to say that number is even higher today. Fish balls are a timeless street food in Hong Kong. Many have grown up eating them near schools. They would grab a few skewers during breaks or after class, dipped in sweet chili or curry sauce.

The Journey of Fish Balls to Hong Kong

Fish balls came to Hong Kong in the 1950s. The city was flourishing, drawing people looking for a better life from mainland China. With its rich fishing tradition, there was no shortage of seafood. The Chaoshan immigrants, known for their culinary skills, introduced fish balls to Hong Kong. Initially, they mixed less-fresh fish with flour, fried the mixture, and sold them as a cheap dish. But they soon became a street food star.

In the 60s and 70s, there was still an abundance of fish, and people made high-quality fish balls. Unfortunately, today, with pollution and overfishing, fish quality has dropped. Many older locals complain that “fish balls have lost their fishy flavor.” It’s like children born in the 90s in the mainland not being able to taste a real free-range chicken egg. “They just don’t taste the same!”

Fish Balls: For Every Mood

Today, you’ll find two main types of fish balls in Hong Kong. The first is the popular curry fish ball, made with just 20-30% shark meat, mixed with flour and seasonings, fried, and served on skewers. These are mostly mass-produced and rely on signature sauces to attract customers. The sauces are usually spicy, sweet, and mixed with curry powder, giving them a rich flavor. They are popular with students and office workers alike. For those seeking a lighter option, there are plain fish balls heated in a clear broth.

The other type is the handmade Chaoshan fish ball. These are more laborious. To make great fish balls, you need quality ingredients. Traditionally, they were made with a mix of ninebone fish, lizardfish, and yellowbelly fish. The process involves removing the scales, skin, and bones, then turning the fish into a paste. Then, this paste is shaped into fish balls with the hands. Good fish balls should be smooth and bouncy (but not too bouncy!). Today, ninebone fish is hard to find and many manufacturers use frozen fish. This has changed the flavor, creating fish balls with an unnaturally “springy” texture. For many old-school Hong Kongers, they have lost their fish flavor, and taste artificial.

The Art of Fish Ball Making

Making fish balls is a tough task. Chefs start work at 4 or 5 AM, constantly pounding the fish paste until it achieves the perfect consistency. This hard work is done for the sake of creating a single perfect fish ball. Young people find this hard to bear. As a result, many traditional fish ball makers are retiring, and the job has been taken over by machines. Authentic Hong Kong fish balls are becoming harder to find.

Where to Find the Best Fish Balls Now

So, if you want to try fish balls in Hong Kong, regardless of the authenticity, it is a must. For a taste of nostalgia, head to places where fishermen used to live, like Tai Po or Cheung Chau. Cheung Chau is a busy island, but it retains a fishing village vibe. It’s a perfect spot for those seeking a relaxing nostalgic trip. Here, you can find “giant fish balls,” as big as tennis balls, which can be enjoyed with different sauces, such as black pepper, curry, barbecue, or plum. For smaller fish balls, head to “Kam Wing Tai Fish Ball,” one of the last remaining places that handmakes them. The queues here are always long on weekends.

Don’t forget about Tai Po! It was also a fisherman’s area that produces lots of fresh fish. Many of the old-school restaurants keep the traditional methods. Because of this, many of the fish balls are produced in small batches and tend to sell out quickly. Located in Tai Po Market, Choi Yun Kee is a 70-year-old restaurant. They use fresh fish, and if ninebone fish isn’t available, they use another fish known as “baodao.” For true fish ball lovers, a plate of curry fish balls is never enough! Fish ball noodles, fish ball hot pot… let’s eat our fill!

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